Autumn Is In The Air

Ludington, MI to Le Roy, MI
68 miles
1,391 feet ascent
748 feet descent
2,633calories

Soon after leaving Ludington this morning, I passed a field of orange basketballs!

Pumpkins Are Ready

And There Are Tons of Them

Did I miss a month somewhere?  Halloween is still two months away, right?

Like Minnesota and Wisconsin, Michigan is also lush green and filled with wildlife.  I saw about ten deer today, and had to help this little guy across the road, lest he end up like the last one I passed.

Turtle Crossing

Then, a little further down the road, I came across these characters,  I hung around long enough to hear one "cock-a-doodle-doo"! They are almost as funny as the cows.

Michigan Rooster & Hen

Evidence of last week's storms was evident all day long and many places were still running off of generators, waiting for power to be restored.

Downed Trees

Big Tree Simply Snapped In High Winds

I am beginning to wonder that perhaps the "Adventure" in "Adventure Cycling" refers not to the cycling part but the "Adventure" in finding out what some of the motels listed in their guides are like. 

Traveler's Inn, Le Roy, MI

Some of them don't have websites, so as Forrest Gump would say "you never know what you're gonna get".   But it's always fun.

The Badger Express

Manitowoc, WI to Lidington, MI
60 miles
0 feet ascent
0 feet descent
? Calories

The S.S. Badger is the last coal fired steam engine car ferry in operation in the U.S., so riding it across Lake Michigan was like taking a trip back in time.  Before each journey a large tractor trailer rolls into it and loads it with coal for the journey.

S.S. Badger Arriving in Manitowoc, WI

Big Rigs Ready to Disembark

Built in 1952, it was originally used to carry train cars for the B&O Railroad, but as more freight move to the Interstate Highway system, the S.S. Badger was taken out service.

Prepare to Board

Eventually a private investor modified it and brought it back into service as a car ferry in 1992.

On The Bow of the S.S. Badger

Goodbye, Wisconsin

(Harbor water muddy from recent flooding)

One of the most surprising aspects of the crossing was all the Monarch butterflies.  Sitting on the aft deck watching Manitowoc fade away, I noticed one flying west.  A few minutes later I saw another one, and another one.  The guy I was chatting with noticed too.  We didn't think much of it until we got further and further out in the Lake.  They never stopped, and we must have seen a hundred by the time we reached the Michigan shore.  Bizarre, but interesting.

Despite the rough weather that pushed through days before that spawned tornados in both Wisconsin and Michigan, the lake was incredibly calm, even all the way out in the middle.

Lake Michigan Midway Between WI and MI

Arriving in Ludington meant I was in Michigan!

Ludington MI Harbor

Welcome to Michigan

Stretching For The Lake Michigan Shoreline

Clintonville, WI to Manitowoc, WI
89 miles
1,142 feet ascent
1,499 feet descent
3,493 calories

I took a gamble today and departed with no confirmed destination or hotel room.  The plan was to ride to a shorter, "tentative" destination and then see how I felt and possibly go all the way to the Lake Michigan shoreline.  The weather was perfect with lots of cloud cover and temperatures in the lower sixties, so things were going well and I decided to try for the "stretch goal."

Scenic Wisconsin Vista

I've been seeing more and more farmhouses with eggs for sale, but today was the first one with turkeys on the front lawn.  There were no "for sale" signs though, so I don't think the turkeys were available.

Turkeys & Chickens on the Front Lawn

Speaking of lawns, this was the first, and only, farm that I saw with a baseball diamond!

"Field of Dreams"

I must confess that I did make a small navigation error this afternoon, but who can blame me when I see signs like this along the road?

Denmark?

And just before that sign was a different one for a town named "Holland."

Eventually, I made it to Manitowoc and the shore of Lake Michigan with a little time to take a quick tour of the downtown area.

Lake Michigan

Rahr West Art Museum

Manitowoc Courthouse

And for those interested, the "stop and hold your ground" dog chasing defense is now 3 for 3 with one "successful" confrontation today.

Slipping Through Tornado Alley North

Rothschild, WI to Clintonville, WI
57 miles
860 feet ascent
1,178 feet descent
2,366 calories

Today was probably the fastest pace ride yet, aided by a few hundred feet of elevation drop, no wind, fresh legs, and a motivation to beat the weather.  The air was thick as soup this morning, but the sun was poking through the clouds, and the weather radar looked promising, so I decided to hit the road.

Central Wisconsin Woods

Rains the past two days and flash flooding abated, but the creeks I crossed today were running high.

Creek Near Elderon, WI

And as the day progressed, the clouds thickened and darkened behind me.  Once again though, I checked in, heard thunder, and turned on the TV to find out there were tornado warnings just two counties away.  Clintonville got rained on, but missed the rough stuff.

Everything is so green because of all the rain, but Bigfoot still has his dark coat of fur and was sighted just outside Bevent, WI this afternoon!

Bigfoot Sighting (click to enlarge)

I think North Dakota is the champion of the largest roadside animals, but Wisconsin is mounting a challenge with it's own collection.

Giant Tweety Bird 

Giant Chicken on Wheels

My chasing dog defense theory of "stop and hold your ground" seems to have some credence as the last two times I have tried it, it's been successful.  We'll see if it holds up though: )

Finally, if you want to see an old Cobra Helicopter, Wisconsin is the place as I passed two of them today at VFW sites probably less than ten miles apart.

Cobra Helicopter at Bevent, WI VFW

Cobra Helicopter at Elderon, WI VFW

Don't Mess With Mother Nature---So I Won't

Rothschild, WI

I was contemplating taking a rest day today, and Mother Nature made the decision an easy one.  After listening to rainfall and thunder nearly all night, it was still pouring early this morning.  Looking at the weather radar and seeing a flash flood watch sealed the deal--rest day!

Accuweather Central/Eastern Wisconsin Weather Radar

I was able to create a map image of the planned route finally on my tablet.  Originally, I was going to bring along a laptop, which would have this a much simpler chore, but I elected to carry just the tablet to save weight.  I say "planned" route as I have made some deviations and will likely make more, but for the most part it is accurate.

Planned Route Map

From The Abby To The Castle

Abbotsford, WI to Rothschild , WI
42 miles
1,198 feet ascent
1,309 feet descent
1,672 calories

I must be the luckiest cyclist around dodging thunderstorms and rain drops.  One threatened when I left Abbotsford and then one unleashed right after I checked into my room in Rothschild.

Leaving the Abby Inn in Abbotsford

The rain poncho is still in its wrapper, so we'll see how long my luck holds out.

A fellow I was talking with during breakfast was in the area to attend the "Steam Show", an event where they exhibit old steam engines and tractors.  And wouldn't you know it, about halfway through today's ride I began seeing signs for it.  A few miles later I drove right by it and could see several of the old steam engines and hear them making their distinctive sounds.

"Steam Show" in Edgar, WI

As much as I have been fighting the wind in Wisconsin, I would think they would be looking at wind power, especially near Lake Michigan.  Well, just over the hill from the Steam Show I came across the pieces for a giant windmill ready for installation.  The size of one blade alone was impressive, so when all of them are put together, it is gigantic.

Giant Windmill Blade

I am still surprised at the terrain in Wisconsin, so for kicks I looked up the highest point in the state.  Turns out it is about 1,950 feet, so with all these ups and downs, I have been nearly climbing to the highest point in the state.

Wisconsin Hill Country

The final leg today though was a nice bike path and pedestrian bridge  along the Wisconsin River just south of Wausau  leading to Rothschild, where I'm staying tonight.

Final Break on the Wisconsin River

Dairyland Is Making Itself Known

Chippewa Falls, WI to Abbotsford, WI
66 miles
1,644 feet ascent
1,214 feet descent
2,690 calories

Wisconsin is finally looking more like dairy country now as I'm seeing more dairy cows and, ahem, smelling more dairies.  There are also more signs for dairy products and, in the case of Colby, more claims to fame--Colby cheese.

Dairy Cows (Finally)

A few miles east of Chippewa Falls near Wissota Lake on County Road O, another milestone was hit as my bike odometer rolled over again.  This time marked the 2K point.  Hopefully, all my parts and stamina will hold out for the balance.

2,000 Mile Point

Not long after stopping for the 2K photo I saw another shiny thing along the shoulder.  This time it turned out to be a Ford logo.  What do you think, better than the Toyota logo: )

Ford "Expedition"

It is a true sign of humbleness when you can laugh at yourself.  You really have to hand it to the Schmidt family, and I was tempted to knock on their door and tell them what a kick the sign in their front yard was, but I kept rolling.  Something tells me they would be a fun family to hang around with.  It took me a while to "get it" because I was looking at all the figures and such.

The ScHmIdT House

During a break near the last stretch of today's ride I heard the "clop, coop, clop" of horseshoes on pavement and looked up to see a horse and carriage.  I soon realized I was in Amish country and probably saw another dozen or so before the day was over.  It is neat to see them running around the towns (Withee and Owen) going about their business.

Amish Horse and Carriage

Fergus Falls, Little Falls, Rain Falls, Soo...Chippewa Falls

Bloomer, WI to Chippewa Falls, WI
18 miles
233 feet ascent
397 feet descent
634 calories

The forecast last night looked bleak, and this morning it only looked slightly better,  so when it looked like there might be a break, I made a dash for nearby Chippewa Falls. 

Stiff Winds & Rain In Bloomer, WI

I made it.  Almost.  A few miles outside of town the sprinkles turned into rain drops, so I had to ride the last leg in showers.  Fortunately, Chippewa Falls has what turned out to be a great bike shop (Spring Street Bike Shop), where I got my derailleur adjusted while doing laundry.  I got a nice lunch for a change, got to see the local brewery, Leinenkugels, and poked around town between showers, so the day was productive in the end. 

Chippewa River

Chippewa Falls

But the neatest part, in my opinion, is the motel I'm staying in has the coolest sign by far of any of the places I've stopped!

Indianhead Motel

Bloomin' "Wind"sconsin!

Cumberland, WI to Bloomer, WI
59 miles
1,552 feet ascent
1,693 feet descent
2,357 calories

One does not usually associate winds with Wisconsin, but that is what she dished out today, making for a trying day.  It just seemed like one uphill trudge into a headwind after another.  Several times I just "gave up" and stopped waiting for a lull.  But they were few and far between.

Stiff Winds at the Ridgeland, WI Veteran's Memorial

Even stopping for a long lunch didn't seem to matter.  Eventually, I made it to Bloomer, but it took much longer than expected.

While there a plenty of farms, I am still looking for all those dairies for which Wisconsin is famous.

Scenic Wisconsin View

Wisconsin Hills

There don't seem to be as many abandoned farms as in Minnesota and North Dakota, but they are around.  Here is one along the route today in case someone is looking for a "fixer upper" farm!

Wisconsin Fixer Upper Farm

And, just to see the potential, here is one already fixed up.  (No, I am not going into real estate.)

Wisconsin "Fixed Up" Farm

I tried a new strategy on a potential chasing dog this afternoon!  He started barking and trotting, so I just slowed and looked at him, and suddenly he just stopped.  I'm not sure if it was my body language or simply he was trained to stay in his lawn and not go into the street.  I wonder what The Dog Whisperer would say?  I'll keep you posted on this strategy after the next chase :)

Today's cows were right next door to the Bloomer Inn, so you know I had to go check them out.

Everybody Wants To Be In The Picture

Electric Cows

Sunset Cows